Food waste: beating bourgeois etiquette


The thermos: the world's most underrated invention?

Why is it a social faux pas to bring a half-eaten cheese to a dinner party? Food waste is one of the most irrational and soluble problems of the modern world, but tackling it is not simply about logistical questions such as supermarket sell-by dates and discount policies. We must also ask fundamental questions about our food culture, and the values which make wasting food more socially acceptable than thrifty consumption.

The European Parliament sounded the alarm this week, warning that nearly 50% of edible and healthy food is wasted every year in the EU by households, supermarkets, restaurants and the distribution chain. Meanwhile 79 million citizens live beneath the poverty line and 16 million rely on food aid.

These figures are shocking but hardly surprising; it seems that everyone has a personal horror story about food profligacy. Workers at an elite London catering company were expressly forbidden from taking home the leftovers from corporate dinners, according to a friend who worked there. And anyone who has attended events in the European Parliament will be aware of the lavish buffet spreads on offer. Unfortunately most people are too busy hobnobbing, networking and lobbying to get through the mountains of options and courses, meaning that much of it goes to waste. No wonder MEPs have cottoned onto the problem.

There are some promising solutions out there for tackling waste in the retail and catering industries, e.g. using public procurement to favour companies who donate leftovers to food banks, and requiring supermarkets to heavily discount damaged or near-expired items. However, as much as 42% of EU food waste is accounted for by households. Leverage is harder to achieve when the target is 500 million citizens who have extremely diverse ways and means of wasting food.

Public awareness campaigns are the likely approach. However, if they are to make a real dent in the mountains of food waste amassed by individuals, they will have to go beyond the narrow logistical questions. The problem is essentially cultural.

Corporate culture and bourgeois etiquette

In the cities where most Europeans live – and where most of the food is wasted – a culture of plenty still prevails, and is surprisingly pervasive. While one office varies from the next, corporate culture remains, by and large, hostile to thrifty and diligent forms of consumption. Lunches packed in tupperware and coffee in a thermos flask are still a rare sight in and around Brussels’ EU quarter. What are more prevalent are discarded cappuccinos in polystyrene cups, and corporate lunching in restaurants and cafes, often involving excessive portions and ample waste, while at home the remains of last night’s dinner go bad in the fridge. Tonight’s dinner ingredients might meet the same fate, given that for many people the working day often drags on to the point where there is little time or energy left to cook – and a takeaway becomes the easiest option.

Peer pressure is hardly limited to the office. Middle class socialising involves multiple dinner parties and brunches; they may be so regular an occurence that it becomes difficult to realistically plan and get through the food you have at home. The result is a handful of half-used items which may have to be thrown out at the end of the week. Yet it is almost unthinkable to bring half a Camembert, or an open bottle of red wine, to someone else’s house. Instead we shell out for fresh nibbles or drinks, often paying a premium at whichever shops are still open, and end up wasting the semi-used items.

The resulting wastage is extremely avoidable, especially when considered that none of the people involved in the social interaction are likely to be actively hostile to economical use of one’s food. Why would they be? We are simply unused to seeing an already opened item brought to a dinner party, and the fear of the unknown makes us frown at it.

Companies can provide microwaves and eating areas for their staff, and many already do, but ultimately the amount of people who take advantage will depend on the prevailing social values. And supermarkets can make it advantageous to buy smaller, more manageable items, but the financially comfortable shopper may still choose a bigger, more expensive portion, and end up wasting much of it, because social values do not tell him/her to do otherwise. As with the broader sustainability debate, much will depend on whether peer pressure can be turned on its head; the change will happen only if it becomes as socially unacceptable to waste food as it currently is to recycle and finish old items in the company of others.

Bike renaissance – breaking the cycle

The transition must occur in society’s collective conscience – and a well-timed public intervention can help to set the tone. Public investment in city bikes has been a huge success, both practically and symbolically. People who do not own a bike have been encouraged to sign up to the schemes and cycle to work. Meanwhile, the growing legions of city bikers will have encouraged others, perceiving a bike-friendly culture, to get their own bikes out of the garage. Seeing these bike users back on the road reinforces the commitment of city bike users to uphold their choice, and so on.

The renaissance of the bicycle, essentially a regression back to a less sophisticated form of transport, shows that modern urban populations can shun the accepted paraphernalia of a modern, sophisticated life, and pick a simpler, more sustainable, and more rational option. The same can happen for food waste, providing that we are able to create a thermos-friendly, lunchbox-friendly, and leftovers-tolerant culture. To do so effectively, we must not underestimate the weight of peer pressure and unwritten social rules.

The views expressed in the article are those of the author only.

Photo by Valentina Pavarotti

  1. #1 by Kirsty on February 6, 2012 - 5:19 am

    I think this is fantastic, we have grown up in a culture where food is plentiful, we no longer know how long food can last in a fridge. I married into my husbands family 8 years ago and soon learned the importance of not wasting; his grandmother has grown up in poland during the war and watched as her mother and sister starved to death…she warned me never to waste a single slice of bread! She is no longer with us but her voice echos still. I try very hard to use everything and in doing so learned to cook and bake so as not waste anything. It also has saved us a lot of money! – thank you

  2. #2 by Paul on February 6, 2012 - 12:43 pm

    Great blog on a massive but pretty invisible issue in people’s minds (apart from on garbage collection day when you have to step round the bulging bins).

    It will be very difficult to change the status quo and I’m not excluding myself from wasteful city habits.

    I don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone in a European restaurant ask for a bag to take leftovers home – it’s just not the done thing, but surely the cooks would want their customers to eat everything up rather than it just go in the bin.

    I’ve heard it’s commonplace in the US to use a food bag (doggy bag?) to take food home and I’m sure it is across Asia.

    The campaigns and new rules for retailers can help, but as you say peer pressure is the only real incentive people have to change habits – along with the prospect of saving more money each week.

  3. #3 by Mark Grassi on February 6, 2012 - 12:45 pm

    Thanks for another great and refreshing blog.

    I am pretty sure I became gluten intolerant thanks to all the nibbles at such work/social events, which seem to be produced specifically to appear fresh but yet dont last very long, and lack variety.

    I have read that 40% of Westerners now experience food allergies – is this linked to the industrialisation of food that has contributed so much to its waste?

    You point out how the healthiest and most rational ways to live are actually the same – I would join you in getting half a camembert out at the next biofuels conference!

  4. #4 by french derek on February 6, 2012 - 7:20 pm

    For households there seem to be two problems.

    First, few people seem to check their fridges and larders before going to the supermarket. Once there they tend to buy the same list of stuff each week; and when they return home find stuff left over from last week. Guess what happens next.

    Second, the “sell by ” date on pre-packed food is perceived as the “use by” date. Once past that date it gets thrown out. Worse, many retailers discard stuff that won’t last their internal “shelf-life” rules (eg fresh foods have a very short shelf life, even though they are usable well after the internal rule date).

    @ Paul I can assure you that, here in France, it is quite acceptable to ask for a doggy-bag (at the level of restaurants I can afford, anyway). And that’s even though portions are (acceptably) smaller than in other countries I’ve visited.

  5. #5 by Ashmita on February 7, 2012 - 12:00 pm

    Food wastage has always been a problem for me -it has been instilled in my siblings and I by horror stories about starving kids, in our pre-primary and primary school days, by our parents.

    But as is echoed by the title of this article, it is the bourgeois etiquette that needs to be beaten. I am enraged when my partner continually wastes perfectly edible food, because his upbringing allowed this mentality despite coming from a below middle-class home.

    In Africa and especially South Africa, Mothers and Bread Winners opposed to food wastage, and who grew up in poor environments find that they bear this burden alone. As no-one else cares, they have to find inventive ways of using up food before having to throw it out.

  6. #6 by Miss Alice on February 7, 2012 - 3:09 pm

    Wanting to save money was what spurred me to avoid food wastage, and I’m pleased to say, it is remarkably easy to do if you plan ahead and pay attention to how much you really eat. I think you’d be suprised how many people could accept someone taking food home in a food bag, though admittedly not so many would like the half-eaten cheese being brought to a party!

  7. #7 by GO2 on February 8, 2012 - 12:08 pm

    Is it possible to rename this article “Beating ANGLO-SAXON bourgeois etiquette” ?
    There are many countries in Europe where it is possible to buy food outside supermarkets and their formatted wrapped portions.
    Not cooking your own food is also a major dysfunction of the US and UK people. Do not project it on all of Europe because of bad habits in Brussels.

  8. #8 by Paul on February 8, 2012 - 1:01 pm

    It may be partly the US/UK model, but I think the focus of the article is on lifestyles in cities, which are becoming increasingly globalised and smilar across Europe and the world.

    Having spent some time in two European capitals I can attest that many non-UK young people appear to be devleoping wastage habits and supermarket-buying tendencies just like any Brit!

  9. #9 by Nick Jacobs on February 8, 2012 - 2:47 pm

    Thanks to everyone for your interesting comments!

    @GO2, Paul
    I agree that food waste often goes hand in hand with a lack of home cooking – the US and UK are good examples of this. But bear in mind that France is McDonalds’ second biggest market. And Mexico is the second most obese country in the world. This is not just an Anglo-Saxon problem. Eating habits are changing quickly, everywhere, and particularly in big cities where fast food and supermarket ready meals are abundant.

    @French Derek
    Interesting to hear the French example re doggy-bags. I have also heard that Scandinavia is a positive example in terms of office staff bringing packed lunches as a matter of course. All goes to show how much food waste is a cultural matter and not an inevitable symptom of modern life – depends what the reigning values are.

    @Kirsty, Ashmita, Miss Alice
    Great to hear these personal testimonies. I think the common theme is that food habits are developed early in, and it is difficult to make someone care about food waste if they have not known economic hardship

    @Mark
    I agree – the rise of food intolerances is surely linked to the abundance of rich, flavoured foods we now consume

  10. #10 by WilliamB on February 10, 2012 - 3:20 pm

    Paul at #2: Mostly in the US we might talk about doggy bags in general (such as this article), at the restaurant we ask – or are asked, hurrah – if we’d like to take the rest of the food home. This word change makes a big difference. A “doggy bag” isn’t the most pleasant visual image.

    I’m quite comfortable taking food home to eat later. I’m working to get comfortable (and to remember) to bring my own reusable containers to do so.

    There is a growing trend against food waste, both for frugality and to lighten our load on the Earth. See, for example, The Frugal Girl’s Food Waste Friday (www.thefrugalgirl.com). I hope this trend lasts longer than the Great Recession that spawned it.

  11. #11 by I'm sure on February 13, 2012 - 5:59 pm

    While I consider cooking your own food much healthier than eating fast food, I’m sure restaurant and food joints’ owners will be delighted to see food waste being related to eating out as opposed to bringing your food in a tupperware to work. What if you only eat half of what is in the tupperware and throw the rest to the bin?

  12. #12 by Kris on February 15, 2012 - 4:43 am

    In the U.S., portions are usually fairly large, so it is fairly common to ask for a “container” or “box” to put the remaining food in, or simply ask “can I get the rest to go?”.

    Leftovers, whether from a home-cooked meal or from a restaurant, are big here.

  13. #13 by Monica on February 24, 2012 - 4:29 pm

    Thanks for an interesting blog post on a topic which I am sure we will hear more and more about in the near future! I totally agree with your conclusion on peer pressure and culture. The only thing which I’d add is that there are already cultures where left overs are not shameful and where the practise of heating up lunch boxes in company kitchens is not only acceptable but becoming the norm: the Nordic countries (or at least Sweden and Finland)

    This could be related to a generally more pragmatic attitude towards food, which you cannot impose on other more food enthusiastic countries of course. But it would be interesting to see whether this more practical view
    translates into less food waste. It would be high time to start comparing figures between different countries and exchanging best practises on possible solutions; on what works and what doesn’t.

  14. #14 by Margaret on March 18, 2012 - 10:32 am

    Food culture and the unconscious beliefs and ideas people have around it is really quite interesting to ponder. I’m still a way off feeling comfortable bringing a half eaten cheese to a dinner party, but curiously, I’d really like to do it! I’ve only recently started getting over the social hang-up about taking things home after being a guest at a dinner party. For example, I’ve always felt that when you bring a bottle of wine to a friend’s place for dinner, that the bottle is like a gift for the host. However recently we’ve been seeing a lot of a couple who don’t actually drink wine, and when there was nearly a third of one of our bottles left at the end of the evening it was passed back to us as we were leaving. At first I felt embarrassed to accept it, however, realizing that it would simply be wasted if I left it there brought to my mind what a silly belief, or social ideal, I had been maintaining. Thanks for the insightful and much needed article. Food waste is something that really needs to be rethought.

(will not be published)